Across The Nation Climbing

I have been unable to get out to any type of cliffs or boulders the past week and a half. However, I used Memorial Day to make serious improvements on my home climbing shed. It's coming along well!!!

The great thing about climbing is that it is so universal. You can go just about anywhere in the world and have rock accessible to you and your friends.

Anyways, my good buddy Mike is across the nation in Washington State for his internship. He has been asking me for advice on gear and keeping me updated on his climbing.  Needless to say I've been pretty jealous of the fact he has a climbing gym near his apartment and a wide variety of high climbs close by as well.

He used his Memorial Day to hit up Little Mt. Si. And do classic 5.9s, Amphibians/Amphetamines.  He has sent me some photos. So below are a few pictures all the way from Washington.  I'm psyched he's getting into climbing and can't wait for us to get out in the Dacks!

Mike said he didn't want to take credit for the man in the first picture, but he did in fact do the climb.

Otter Lake Cliffs

Saturday was set to be hot and sunny. Too hot for bouldering, so Jut, Pooler, Mitch, Banta and I hiked up into Otter Lake Cliffs.  We were all pumped to do some sport climbing and top roping.

We get there, and out of the variety of routes on the cliffs, only 3 were dry.  Water was dripping from the roofs, down the face of the cliffs and puddling at our feet at the base.  "We didn't do the the half hour hike for nothing."

We topped roped Porcupine Prelude, Crimp Scampi, and Roof Direct.  Mitch was psyched and decided to clean a large crack on the left side of the cliffs. Crimp Scampi was a popular this day as it was one of the higher grade climbs to do. After top roping it, Banta went on lead climb and crushed it. NICE!
I did my best and figured out the climb in pieces but came up shy when going from ground up.

Jut figured out the beta on Roof Direct on lead. Great job!!! In the meantime, the large crack Mitch cleaned had dried up a little more. He had topped roped it and then I followed.  I belayed him as he figured out what gear he needed to trad climb.  Then he completed the climb ground up. New route was born on the cliffs. 'Contradiction Crack'.

By late afternoon, 'Pandoras Box' was dry enough to send.  We all took our turns on this, and ended the day on a big note.  All in all, we had a great day at the cliffs of Otter Lake.

 Wet cliff face (center), dry on 'Contradiction Crack' (far right)

 Puddles formed at the base of the belay boulder.

 Mitch on 'Crimp Scampi'

 Banta on lead 'Crimp Scampi'

 Jut on 'Roof Direct'

 Placing gear on 'Contradiction Crack'

 Base of 'Pandoras Box'

'Pandoras Box'

'Pandoras Box'

De-Construction ;-(

Well the transformation of the shed has begun.  Just these past few days, I've started to disassemble all routes and holds on my back-yard climbing shed.

If you've been keeping up to date on this blog, you know the reason.  For those of you who don't know, my shed violates building codes for the City of Johnstown.  It was "too high".

With the assistance of my amazing girlfriend, all rock climbing holds have been removed from the plywood.  My next step is to remove the plywood and structural supports of my angled walls on the inside and rebuild a 'low-to-the-ground' climbing area.

But don't worry, my mind has been in the process of putting on new angles for a wide variety of climbs and ceiling traverses.  I'm keeping my optimism up and know that, although this climbing shelter will seem cramped and small, it will be a great place to train on days where the elements of nature won't allow you to venture outside. A fully enclosed 360 degree place to climb and get great pumps and learn/excel in rock climbing techniques.


Also, the fabrication of my own rock holds is continuing to grow, with just a small starter kit of silicone rubber and resin I have purchased, I've been able to make 3 molds and several actual bolt-on holds for my gym. Much much more to come!

Media updates will soon be available.

Ash's First Time Out!

It was the perfect weekend for climbing. Clear sky, warm, sunny with a light breeze. My amazing girlfriend and I decided to sleep in for a change, but we were still eager to get into 9 Corner.

We got dressed, I packed both my pads and shoes and we headed on up around noon.  The whole way there I was shaking because I was so anxious to get my girl on some real rocks.

We finally got up to the boulders and I had her start on 'Meat and Potatoes' and later we made our way over to 'Tea Time'.

She was amazing! I was shocked at how well she did on her first day out. Within just a few short hours she learned rock climbing techniques that are very difficult to achieve. Her adaptation from home gym climbing, to real bouldering was inspiring. Every goal I picked out for her, she accomplished! I'm so proud of her and can't wait till we get out again!

Great job babe!

A little media update from this weekend:

Before our hike in.

Difficult traverse on 'Meat and Potatoes'.

Just hanging out.

 You know I had to climb myself.

'Tea Time'

9 Corner Cliffs

I took the opportunity on Sundays sun and went into 9 Corner. I brought almost all of my gear, harness, ropes, slings, biners, brushes and of course my shoes and chalk.

My thoughts were to anchor the tops of the cliffs, clean a route and perhaps send it as well as do some bouldering after.  Things went as planned, however, I did not boulder.

There are dozens of routes on this set of cliffs, including large cracks and roofs.  I cleaned a large crack on the right side of the cliffs top-down. I then threw on my shoes and chalk bag and headed on up. I sent it my first attempt and was pretty psyched.

The drive, hike in, cleaning and climbing only took about 3 hours. I feel very fortunate to have a great outdoor climbing spot like 9 to be so close to home.

My hopes is to keep cleaning these cliffs and put up more routes, so in the future there will be both top roping and bouldering in Caroga!

Oops!

For the few people who may start jumping on this band wagon and start following me and my friends climbing, this next story is quite entertaining.

After years of contemplation, I had finally decided to build this climbing shed of mine (the one shown below in my first post) However, things needed to be done before I could begin. First and foremost, I needed to convince my parents. Once I had the ok from them, I could begin.
But I wanted o know what limitation I was working with so I emailed the TOWN of Johnstown Code Enforcer. And he explained I could go as high as 25'.

So by using my dads truck, I started the week of my sisters birthday back in the beginning of October, bringing in crushed stone for the base. I then constructed the floor and walls. Within a few days the first phase was complete. Whenever I came home on the weekends in between school, within a few weeks of building by myself plus a helping hand from my father every now and then. It was 15+ feet high.

Placing the roof was challenging and scary, but with help from my good buddy Tom, we did it and the shelter was enclosed.
I worked endlessly on the inside and finally had completed my variations of angled walls and ceilings. IT'S COMPLETE! I HAVE A CLIMBING SHED IN MY BACK YARD! I was ecstatic.


BUT!..... this story does not quite have a happy ending.
Someone in my neighborhood had complained about my shack. Who/Why/ Or to What purpose would someone do something like that?

The fire department had stopped and looked it over. A few things where of concern:

1. The shed is roughly 2' from our existing tool shed (code has it set to a minimum of 5' from property line and other "sheds")

no problem, we can move the other shed (it's easier than you think)

2. The shed is 22' high. (code has it set to 12' Height restrictions!!!!!!!)

My mistake prior to construction, I emailed the TOWN of Johnstown, and I live in the CITY.

OOPS!

Therefore, I'm filing for a zone variance. The zoning board meets every third thursday of the month. So my next chance to get it passed will meet with them on MAY 24.

Keep your fingers crossed in hopes I can keep it at the height it's at. If I can't, I'll have to find other alternatives.

You may be asking, "Is it all worth this hassle?"

Below are just a few pictures of what makes it worth it: