Mike and I at The Edge!

So after many weeks of preparing, traveling, studying, and all around work for school, I was finally able to do some climbing. And I had some company.  Some of you may remember my buddy Mike from school. I posted a few months ago about him climbing in the great state of Washington while he was doing is internship. We had been planning to do some climbing for a long time, and we finally found the opportunity to.

Due to weather conditions, we were forced to stay indoors. It didn't really matter to us, we were just psyched to climb. So we traveled to The Edge, Halfmoon climbing gym.  We arrived at 9:00 (when they open) they were unlocking the doors as soon as we were walking in. Perfect timing.  I knew it would be a good day, just due to the variety of climbs (bouldering, lead, top rope) and the different levels of difficulty. I just so happened to have my rope in the car, so there was no need in renting one when we wanted to lead.

We started off bouldering. Nice V1-V2 climbs just to get the blood flowing and stretch.  Mike was new to lead climbing, so we had a quick tutorial on clipping, belaying and overall techniques.  We did some rounds with the assistance of the guys who work there, then we were all on our own.  We were both ecstatic! Neither one of us have climbed in quite some time, so it was great just to be in the atmosphere of it all.

Although the differential in weight was there. Mike was a great belayer. We tackled some nice 5.8 and 5.9 climbs, which we thought was an achievement due to our absence of any type of climbing.  Our arms were pumped quickly, and our grip was quickly shot.  So we took a short break, munched down on some power-bars and went after some more lead climbs and top roping.  We started with a 5.10 and worked our way down to a 5.7, with hardly any breaks in between. We then had another short intermission, and ended our day with some great bouldering.

On gloomy drizzly days, this place get packed. It started with a half a dozen late morning.  Then by early afternoon, there must have been nearly 50 people there. It's great to see the intensity and popularity of this sport!!! Below are just some pictures towards the end of the day:

Southern Adirondack Climber: "LA Roof"- 5.13b

Southern Adirondack Climber: "LA Roof"- 5.13b: Ken Murphy doing his thing down in New Paltz, New York on the Second Ascent of "LA Roof" in Peters Kill at Minnewaska State Park.  This rout...

Finally Covered!

Well after many many weeks of being told my shed was too high, I finally have the new roof put on, to correct building code height! It was pretty difficult stripping the newly placed outside sheathing on the second floor and ripping apart the roof rafters and collar ties (sorry to bother you with my contractor lingo).

Anyways, all is said and done and the new metal roof has been placed. And not a moment too soon either, given the sever weather we have approaching this next upcoming week. Now on days it's raining, I can devote time to organizing the inside, carving holds, placing holds and work on some core training. A few weeks of training will be perfect given our newly planned trip to Lake Champlain!

It is here in which they have large cliffs extruding from the water reaching toward the sky to about 80 feet. Can you say Deep-Solo? Myself, Jut, Pooler, Banta, Jeremy, Tim, Brad, Mitch, Manning accompanied with my cousin Kristy and my amazing girlfriend Ashley, we will be hauling the boat the 2 hour trip north and get our free climb on.  My hopes is that my cousin Damien gets ahold of some film equipment so he can shoot and edit this epic journey. Keep following on media updates!!!

Below is an update of the shed, then and now.

 Looking back on the old shed

 Some of the sheathing is off, getting ready for the new roof

 Start of the new roof, rafters sticking out

New roof covered, drip edge installed and metal locked down!

The new height of the shed. Quite different!

Adirondack Bouldering On The Rise!

Besides climbing, I like to enjoy other things as well. One activity I enjoy is going to concerts. I was recently in Saratoga for the Dave Matthews band concert this past June.

After which, we went to a pizza parlor, where I happen to look over and see among all of the papers and flyers a headline "Adirondack Sports and Fitness". Intrigued, I started skimming through it, then I came to an article, "Adirondack Bouldering on the Rise!" and a huge familiar picture of Sully. A picture of which I took last year at the Southern Adirondack Bouldering Comp in Nine Corners. I was so psyched, I instantly read the whole article.

For your reading pleasure, I have posted the link below. Just scroll to page 13 and then 28. Enjoy!!!

http://www.adksports.com/current%20issue/ASF_JUN2012_sm.pdf

Across The Nation Climbing

I have been unable to get out to any type of cliffs or boulders the past week and a half. However, I used Memorial Day to make serious improvements on my home climbing shed. It's coming along well!!!

The great thing about climbing is that it is so universal. You can go just about anywhere in the world and have rock accessible to you and your friends.

Anyways, my good buddy Mike is across the nation in Washington State for his internship. He has been asking me for advice on gear and keeping me updated on his climbing.  Needless to say I've been pretty jealous of the fact he has a climbing gym near his apartment and a wide variety of high climbs close by as well.

He used his Memorial Day to hit up Little Mt. Si. And do classic 5.9s, Amphibians/Amphetamines.  He has sent me some photos. So below are a few pictures all the way from Washington.  I'm psyched he's getting into climbing and can't wait for us to get out in the Dacks!

Mike said he didn't want to take credit for the man in the first picture, but he did in fact do the climb.

Otter Lake Cliffs

Saturday was set to be hot and sunny. Too hot for bouldering, so Jut, Pooler, Mitch, Banta and I hiked up into Otter Lake Cliffs.  We were all pumped to do some sport climbing and top roping.

We get there, and out of the variety of routes on the cliffs, only 3 were dry.  Water was dripping from the roofs, down the face of the cliffs and puddling at our feet at the base.  "We didn't do the the half hour hike for nothing."

We topped roped Porcupine Prelude, Crimp Scampi, and Roof Direct.  Mitch was psyched and decided to clean a large crack on the left side of the cliffs. Crimp Scampi was a popular this day as it was one of the higher grade climbs to do. After top roping it, Banta went on lead climb and crushed it. NICE!
I did my best and figured out the climb in pieces but came up shy when going from ground up.

Jut figured out the beta on Roof Direct on lead. Great job!!! In the meantime, the large crack Mitch cleaned had dried up a little more. He had topped roped it and then I followed.  I belayed him as he figured out what gear he needed to trad climb.  Then he completed the climb ground up. New route was born on the cliffs. 'Contradiction Crack'.

By late afternoon, 'Pandoras Box' was dry enough to send.  We all took our turns on this, and ended the day on a big note.  All in all, we had a great day at the cliffs of Otter Lake.

 Wet cliff face (center), dry on 'Contradiction Crack' (far right)

 Puddles formed at the base of the belay boulder.

 Mitch on 'Crimp Scampi'

 Banta on lead 'Crimp Scampi'

 Jut on 'Roof Direct'

 Placing gear on 'Contradiction Crack'

 Base of 'Pandoras Box'

'Pandoras Box'

'Pandoras Box'

De-Construction ;-(

Well the transformation of the shed has begun.  Just these past few days, I've started to disassemble all routes and holds on my back-yard climbing shed.

If you've been keeping up to date on this blog, you know the reason.  For those of you who don't know, my shed violates building codes for the City of Johnstown.  It was "too high".

With the assistance of my amazing girlfriend, all rock climbing holds have been removed from the plywood.  My next step is to remove the plywood and structural supports of my angled walls on the inside and rebuild a 'low-to-the-ground' climbing area.

But don't worry, my mind has been in the process of putting on new angles for a wide variety of climbs and ceiling traverses.  I'm keeping my optimism up and know that, although this climbing shelter will seem cramped and small, it will be a great place to train on days where the elements of nature won't allow you to venture outside. A fully enclosed 360 degree place to climb and get great pumps and learn/excel in rock climbing techniques.


Also, the fabrication of my own rock holds is continuing to grow, with just a small starter kit of silicone rubber and resin I have purchased, I've been able to make 3 molds and several actual bolt-on holds for my gym. Much much more to come!

Media updates will soon be available.

Ash's First Time Out!

It was the perfect weekend for climbing. Clear sky, warm, sunny with a light breeze. My amazing girlfriend and I decided to sleep in for a change, but we were still eager to get into 9 Corner.

We got dressed, I packed both my pads and shoes and we headed on up around noon.  The whole way there I was shaking because I was so anxious to get my girl on some real rocks.

We finally got up to the boulders and I had her start on 'Meat and Potatoes' and later we made our way over to 'Tea Time'.

She was amazing! I was shocked at how well she did on her first day out. Within just a few short hours she learned rock climbing techniques that are very difficult to achieve. Her adaptation from home gym climbing, to real bouldering was inspiring. Every goal I picked out for her, she accomplished! I'm so proud of her and can't wait till we get out again!

Great job babe!

A little media update from this weekend:

Before our hike in.

Difficult traverse on 'Meat and Potatoes'.

Just hanging out.

 You know I had to climb myself.

'Tea Time'

9 Corner Cliffs

I took the opportunity on Sundays sun and went into 9 Corner. I brought almost all of my gear, harness, ropes, slings, biners, brushes and of course my shoes and chalk.

My thoughts were to anchor the tops of the cliffs, clean a route and perhaps send it as well as do some bouldering after.  Things went as planned, however, I did not boulder.

There are dozens of routes on this set of cliffs, including large cracks and roofs.  I cleaned a large crack on the right side of the cliffs top-down. I then threw on my shoes and chalk bag and headed on up. I sent it my first attempt and was pretty psyched.

The drive, hike in, cleaning and climbing only took about 3 hours. I feel very fortunate to have a great outdoor climbing spot like 9 to be so close to home.

My hopes is to keep cleaning these cliffs and put up more routes, so in the future there will be both top roping and bouldering in Caroga!

Oops!

For the few people who may start jumping on this band wagon and start following me and my friends climbing, this next story is quite entertaining.

After years of contemplation, I had finally decided to build this climbing shed of mine (the one shown below in my first post) However, things needed to be done before I could begin. First and foremost, I needed to convince my parents. Once I had the ok from them, I could begin.
But I wanted o know what limitation I was working with so I emailed the TOWN of Johnstown Code Enforcer. And he explained I could go as high as 25'.

So by using my dads truck, I started the week of my sisters birthday back in the beginning of October, bringing in crushed stone for the base. I then constructed the floor and walls. Within a few days the first phase was complete. Whenever I came home on the weekends in between school, within a few weeks of building by myself plus a helping hand from my father every now and then. It was 15+ feet high.

Placing the roof was challenging and scary, but with help from my good buddy Tom, we did it and the shelter was enclosed.
I worked endlessly on the inside and finally had completed my variations of angled walls and ceilings. IT'S COMPLETE! I HAVE A CLIMBING SHED IN MY BACK YARD! I was ecstatic.


BUT!..... this story does not quite have a happy ending.
Someone in my neighborhood had complained about my shack. Who/Why/ Or to What purpose would someone do something like that?

The fire department had stopped and looked it over. A few things where of concern:

1. The shed is roughly 2' from our existing tool shed (code has it set to a minimum of 5' from property line and other "sheds")

no problem, we can move the other shed (it's easier than you think)

2. The shed is 22' high. (code has it set to 12' Height restrictions!!!!!!!)

My mistake prior to construction, I emailed the TOWN of Johnstown, and I live in the CITY.

OOPS!

Therefore, I'm filing for a zone variance. The zoning board meets every third thursday of the month. So my next chance to get it passed will meet with them on MAY 24.

Keep your fingers crossed in hopes I can keep it at the height it's at. If I can't, I'll have to find other alternatives.

You may be asking, "Is it all worth this hassle?"

Below are just a few pictures of what makes it worth it:

First Blog - April 14, 2012

I've decided to follow in my idol/mentor's footsteps and create a blog of my own.

I first started climbing about 4 years ago and wasn't able to get out as much as I would have liked. But now hat sports are over and college is quickly coming to an end, I find myself climbing more and more often. Getting stronger and doing climbs I never thought possible. Even if they are V3. Getting out more and more along with the assistance of my own climbing gym, has really helped me develop.

     Here are some photos of my backyard climbing gym: